Dog Coats

A dog’s coat is a vital barometer of his well-being.

Unlike their human counterparts, our canine friends’ coats cover not just their heads, but their entire bodies. Their skin and coat are what separates their entire anatomy from the outside world. A caress, a scratch, a petting gesture, a friendly nuzzle or threatening bite, even the invasion of uninvited parasites, are all experienced through their skin and coat. It is what allows a dog to touch and be touched. It is his window on the world. If all is right with his coat, all is right with him.

Veterinarians and dog professionals can attest to the fact that a dog’s coat can be a useful barometer of his or her well being. If the coat looks unduly rough or the skin overly flaky, it is a strong sign that something is wrong with that dog. If a dog’s coat and skin problems are left to worsen, the dog’s quality of life is depleted.

Dog Coat Types

Whether your dog is an Afghan Hound, a Boston Terrier, a Brittany, or Giant Schnauzer, it possesses a basic canine bone and muscle structure. All dogs are members of the canine species. But since the beginning of time, man has been developing specific characteristics of the domestic dog through controlled breeding. The outcome is 165 American Kennel Club®-recognized breeds. That doesn’t include mixed breeds, some foreign breeds, rare breeds, and so-called designer dogs (for example the Labradoodle.) Each breed is unique in its purpose, look, temperament, and, certainly, coat. Moreover, different dogs within the same breed may well show different skin conditions, live in different climates, have different lifestyles (outdoor vs. indoor), and clearly be of different ages and genders.

At Isle of Dogs™ we have created a system that is as individual as the dog and its coat.

In general we can put most dogs into the following categories:

Smooth-Coated:

(Examples include Pointers, Whippets, Boxers, Bulldogs, Chihuahuas, Doberman Pinschers, Boston Terriers): In general, the smooth coat is clean and odor-free. It is close to the body, and individual hairs are short and stiff. The skin is soft, and it is often sensitive to harsh products, tools and/or equipment. Long periods in cold or extreme weather without coats or jackets are not appropriate for smaller breeds with this coat, and all breeds are more prone to insect bites than those with other coats.

Short-Coated:

(Examples include Labrador Retrievers, Beagles, Rottweilers, Pugs): The short coat is short, harsh, and close to the body. It is compatible with a wide variety of weather conditions. Naturally occurring body oils can result in an odor in some breeds, typically hounds. Shedding can be profuse in cooler spring climates.

Combination-Coated:

(Examples include Brittanys, Golden Retrievers, Tibetan Spaniels, Border Collies): The combination coat has both a short, smooth coat and a long, silky coat. A very short coat is on the face and front sides of the legs; a short, dense coat is on the body; and a longer coat is on the tail, the undercarriage, and the rear sides of the legs. Usually breeds with a combination coat have seasonal sheds. The long coat between the feet and the pads is prone to matting and accumulating dirt and debris, and so needs to be trimmed.

Double-Coated:

(Examples include Akitas, German Shepherds, Norwegian Pomeranians, Shelties, Siberian Huskys): The double coat is straight, and short to moderate in length. It has a harsh outer guard coat, and a dense, thick, soft down undercoat, which protects against extreme weather. Naturally occurring body oils can result in an odor. Shedding can be profuse during seasonal changes.

Heavy-Coated:

(Examples include Newfoundlands, Chow Chows, Pekingese): The heavy coat has both long, thick, silky coat and limited short, smooth coat. The long coat must be brushed regularly to prevent mats and tangles that could lead to inflamed and/or infected skin due to lack of air circulation. The long coat between the toes and the pads is prone to accumulating dirt and debris. Shedding can be profuse during seasonal changes.

Silky-Coated:

(Examples include all Setters, English Springer Spaniels, Cocker Spaniels, Cavalier King Charles): The silky coat has both long, silky coat and limited short, smooth coat. A very short, tight coat is on the face and front sides of the legs; a short coat is on the body; and a longer coat is on the tail, the undercarriage, and the rear sides of the legs. The long coat must be brushed regularly to prevent mats and tangles. Usually breeds with a silky coat have seasonal sheds. The long coat between the toes and the pads is prone accumulating dirt and debris.

Natural Long-Haired:

(Examples include Tibetan Terriers, Lhasa Apsos, Shih Tzus, Afghan Hounds, Yorkshire Terriers, Maltese): The natural long-haired coat is characterized by long coat covering the entire body, and is often considered non-shedding. Very little trimming is done to prepare breeds with this coat for the show ring. The long coat must be brushed regularly to prevent mats and tangles that could lead to inflamed and/or infected skin due to lack of air circulation. The long coat between the toes and the pads is prone to accumulating dirt and debris. Due to excessive coat, natural long-haired breeds may have eye and ear problems.

Curly- and Wavy-Coated:

(Examples include Irish Water Spaniels, Old English Sheepdogs, Poodles, Bichon Frises): The curly or wavy coat is soft, curly or wavy, and non-shedding. It must be brushed regularly to prevent mats and tangles, and requires regular trimming and bathing to maintain good health and manageability.

Wire-Coated:

(Examples include most Terriers, Giant and Standard Schnauzers, Wire-Haired Dachshunds, Irish Woflhounds): The wire coat has a soft, dense undercoat that covers much of the body, and wiry guard hair that covers the entire body (face, ears, body, legs, and tail). The longer guard coat must be brushed, bathed, and hand-plucked or -stripped regularly to prevent mats and tangles. In cooler climates, the shorter undercoat will shed out during seasonal sheds. The long coat between the toes and the pads is prone to matting and accumulating dirt and debris.

Corded:

(Examples include Pulis, Komondors, Poodles): The corded coat consists of strong top coat entwining a soft, woolly undercoat. Typically breeds will not develop corded coats until adulthood. With age the coat can grow to the length seen in the show ring. Much care is required for corded coats to be properly nurtured and maintained. Frequent bathing is not advisable since shampoo does not completely rinse out, and the coat is very difficult to dry thoroughly. Avoiding fleas and skin problems is imperative.

"I wonder if other dogs think poodles are members of a weird religious cult."

-Rita Rudner

Bathing Basics

Often dreaded as a labor intensive chore which neither the dog nor the owner enjoys, bathing your dog can actually be a positive experience for both. And the end result should be a reward to both as well.

The key to hassle-free bathing is having the proper facilities. The best option is a raised tub with a dog friendly designed water nozzle. If you haven't already discovered one, look for a do-it-yourself dog wash in your area. Besides offering a dog and groomer friendly tub, they often provide access to professional grooming tables and dryers. If such an option is not available to you, we recommend investing in a hand held shower head with at least a 6 ft. hose. These are easy to attach in any standard tub/shower combo unit. We also recommend using a rubber mat on the bottom of the tub to help make your dog feel more secure and less likely to slide. Especially with dogs not familiar to baths, it may be necessary to secure their head in a specially made bath leash. Several different models are available in pet supply catalogs. They can be permanently attached to the wall or secured with a temporary suction cup. (Though try without first: dogs who began life scared of baths often grow to adore their bathing sessions and even look forward to them. Your confident and reassuring manner is key.)

The water temperature should be warm and comfortable to your own skin. Not as hot as you like it, but not cold either. Wet the coat, starting at the back of the neck and working down the spine toward the tail. Keeping the nozzle close to the skin will allow the water to penetrate the coat, and hopefully keep the water from spraying you. Work the nozzle down one side of the dog including the legs then down the other side until the pet is thoroughly saturated. Heavily coated dogs will take longer to wet and rinse.

Once the body coat is soaked, wet the head taking care to not get the water in the eyes, nose or ears. You may want to place cotton balls in some dog's ears to prevent getting water into the canal.

To ensure distribution of product, first massage the shampoo evenly onto your hands before massaging it into the dog's skin with your fingers. Again starting at the back of the neck in a similar pattern as wetting the dog. For a particularly dirty dog, more than one shampooing may be needed to get him or her really clean. It is during the second application that we highly recommend letting the product sit on the coat for several minutes. This will allow the active ingredients such as Evening Primrose Oil and Royal Jelly the opportunity to absorb into the hair and skin. Once the 2-5 minutes are up, be sure to THOROUGHLY RINSE all traces of shampoo from the coat. Leaving even small amounts of shampoo in the coat is the number one cause of skin irritation in dogs.

Apply the appropriate conditioner, following the same procedure as for shampooing. Some coat types may do better leaving trace amounts of conditioner in the coat or letting the conditioner sit in the coat a few minutes before rinsing. This will be specific to your dog's individual coat care needs. Conditioners are typically used to protect the hair from damage caused by styling tools and products as well as environmental factors and to help loosen tangles. Many harsh coated breeds still need some type of conditioner applied to beards or leg furnishings.

Squeeze out as much water as possible while the dog is still in the tub. You can then towel dry the coat before carefully removing your pet from the tub. Depending on your breed, you may need to use a specifically designed dryer to help dry the coat completely.

Drying Basics

There are probably as many different drying techniques as there are breeds of dogs. All based on coat type and condition and what works for you and your dog.

The easiest and most popular is towel drying followed by air drying. Simply use your hands to gently squeeze out as much water as your dog will let you. Once that is done you can blot him gently with a towel. For most coated dogs it is not recommended to scrub the coat with the towel. This will cause tangles and damage or breakage to the hair itself. If this is all the effort it takes to dry your particular dog it is at this time that we recommend spritzing the coat lightly with an Isle of Dogs Grooming Spray or Conditioning Mist.

For breeds that require a force air dryer or stand dryer you still want to start by using the above methods followed by using the dryer. These types of dryers can frighten some dogs, and we don't recommend using these products without the help of an experienced groomer the first time. For coated breeds the Isle of Dogs No. 62 Evening Primrose Oil or No. 63 Detangle Conditioning Mist should be used when the coat is just damp and brushed in during the final drying stage.

Once your dog is freshly cleaned and dry, he will feel on top of the world. The gentle, natural ingredients in Isle of Dogs products will leave his skin comfortable and his coat in top condition, and most important of all, he will know you love him.